Aggression in Dogs: Can an E-Collar Help?
Robin,
I was wondering if you use e collars in dealing with aggression in dogs? If so I was wondering if you can shed some light on the subject. I also wanted to take a minute to say thank you. Your information has really changed the entire way that I go about e collar training. I can not thank you enough!
Thanks,
Tony
The question above came to me a couple of days ago, and I thought it a great topic to bring to The Truth About Shock Collars blog.
The answer is yes. I use remote collars as part of the training program when dealing with aggressive dogs. Using the electronic collar as a way to redirect the dog’s attention is a large part of the success in how I go about rehabilitating dogs with aggression issues.
I realize that answer is in contrast to much of the information circulating on the internet. Warnings about NOT using a shock collar to deal with aggression in dogs abound. My guess is those warnings come from people who don’t use the tool on a regular basis and therefore have rather limited knowledge of how to do so properly.
Let me point out right off the bat that I don’t advocate putting a shock collar on the dog, waiting for him/her to display aggressive behaviors, and then pushing the button to punish for those actions. As in “That’ll teach Fido not to chase after other dogs!” Sorry, but that thought process belongs in the idiot’s guide to dog training 101.
Unfortunately, it is what some people do. And then, when the aggressive behavior gets worse or the dog yelps and runs away, those same people blame the tool rather than accepting the responsibility that they did not know what they were doing in the first place.
Seriously folks, if I go to the auto parts store, buy the best wrench set on the shelves, come home and lift the hood of my new Honda Element and start tinkering with the engine…..do I get to blame the wrench manufacturer when my car doesn’t run properly anymore? I’d say I was the problem, not the tool.
So let’s discuss the highlights of how to incorporate the use of a remote collar when working with dogs displaying aggression problems.
The first and most important step is to lay a proper foundation of obedience training with the remote collar. The purpose of the obedience is to give the dog “something else to focus on” (ie. a job) when presented with situations that normally evoke aggressive responses. The dog should be introduced to the collar through the foundation and attention exercises of learning to follow on a leash, come when called, and stay in one place. I also typically teach dogs dealing with aggression a *look* or *watch* command. In this way, we can create higher attentiveness to the owner/handler when the dog is faced with situations where we do not want to allow him/her to focus on the trigger. This initial training should be started in situations that do not trigger aggressive responses in the dog. It would not be fair for the dog to be learning something brand new when under the duress of those situations.
Once the dog has a solid understanding of obedience, we can begin to expose him/her to the triggers. The collar is used for obedience commands while the dog is in those situations that previously brought on an aggressive response. It is important to note that the collar is NOT being used to punish the dog for any aggressive response (barking, growling, lunging, etc) Rather, the collar is used to prompt and enforce an obedience command. The obedience is used PROACTIVELY before the dog reacts improperly. In this way we are redirecting the dogs attention away from the source of tension and back to the handler and the *job* the dog is being asked to perform.
Example: with a dog that is highly reactive to other dogs (growling, lunging, barking etc) I use the collar to enforce a Heel command and teach the dog he/she must simply walk politely near, around, and past other dogs. There is no punishment for being reactive. The e-collar is used to prompt attentiveness to the handler and the Heel command.
NOTE: This is a process that is incremental and advances in the level of challenge with respect to how quickly the dog is grasping the concept and being successful. If the dog can’t walk politely past a dog who is 15 feet away, don’t push him to walk within 5 feet. The goal is to keep the dog BELOW threshold and give him/her success at walking politely in the presence of other dogs.
One of the tremendous advantages of training with a remote collar when dealing with aggression in dogs is that it is far less subject to human emotion getting in the way and further escalating the problems. The handler can remain much more neutral in body language than when using other training collars or halters that require physical force.
The remote collar also has the advantage of being useful at a distance. Being able to enforce a Down command from 50 yards away or recall a dog who is on a sprint to chase a jogger is much more achievable to the average dog owner than through any other training method I know of
So the role that the e-collar has in dealing with aggression issues is that of the attention getter. The collar is used to prompt attention and hold the dog attentive to command even in the midst of those *distractions* (Other dogs, people, etc) that cause the dog to react with barking, lunging, snapping, etc.
I want to point out there are many other considerations when working with aggressive dogs, and I don’t suggest the average pet owner go it alone. Find a professional who has hands-on experience and a solid track record of success to help you.
In my years of dealing with aggression cases, I have seen many things influence the outcome of the cases. Possible health issues (thyroid, structure problems, ear infections, deafness, and sight problems, to name a few) should be ruled out by a veterinarian.
Dogs that display fear and aggressive issues need confidence-building and desensitization exercises as part of their program. Knowing how to properly time reward markers and use food is important to help build confidence and better behavior with these dogs. The long-term goal is to change their emotional response to their triggers.
And there are cases where genetics play a significant influence.
The most crucial consideration in determining the likelihood of success is the owner. No tool is magic and will solve all the problems. And there are no absolutes in training. Each case is different. It takes consistency and dedication to help dogs struggling with aggression. The underlying cause should be understood, the triggers identified, and then a treatment plan determined.
The e-collar can be a large part of the process by effectively re-directing the dog’s attention. Personally, I would no longer want to work with aggression cases if I could not use the e-collar to help with the process. In my time specializing in this training, I have found that the dogs learn much faster, there is FAR less stress on the dog and on the handler, and total rehabilitation is much more likely due to those factors.
If you are considering ecollar training, This series, E-collar Basic Obedience is the best place to start.
Please note: Comments on this post have been disabled due to the volume of people asking for help with their dog’s aggressive behavior. I simply cannot keep up with the volume and dispense personalized advice to deal with complex situations.
If you are seeking help:
1. Implement leadership structures into your daily routine immediately. You can access my leadership guide here.
2. Find an experienced and successful local trainer who deals with cases similar to what you are dealing with. If you can not find a local resource I may be able to help you through a series of virtual lessons.
3. Be prepared to put in significant time and effort. There is no quick fix. Training is a process and requires you to be committed to it.
Hi I have a 6 year old Maltese, a 6 year old yorkie and an almost 2 year old Biewer yorkie. The two 6 year olds (females) used to get a long great. I got the third 1.5 year ago and he is a sweetie and a very submissive dog, but since then the 6 year old yorkie has been mean to the 6 year old maltese. She is attacking her, bloodying her ears, and even having to potty over the maltese’s potty spots in the yard (sometimes even while the maltese is going potty). What can I do to help them to get along so the maltese isn’t being attacked anymore? Getting rid of any of them is not an option.
Thank you!
Hi Calista,
Unfortunately no one can “make” the 2 of them get along or like one another, not anymore than we can make 2 humans like one another. However, they can learn they need to peacefully co-exist in your household. They can learn to understand that by you becoming a better leader and taking charge of your home environment. There are a number of tips about how to do that in 7 Tips for Stressfree Living with your Dog that you can download from this site. That should get you started.
As for as the E-collar is concerned that can play a role in helping you develop better obedience and compliance which is part of becoming a better leader in their mind. Until you get a better handle on things I would suggest you keep them separate when you are not there, keep a leash on both (light weight, that they can drag around the house) so you have a handle to get hold of if you need to intervene and create follow through when they are not listening. Intervening is the way to interrupt behaviors before it gets out of hand. For instance if one is being petted and played with by you and the other approaches to possibly reprimand…you should re-direct the approaching one to go to her place/bed. The idea meaning you as the leader have the right to play/pet which ever dog you chose while the other patiently waits their turn for attention.
Hope that makes sense. That kind of leadership and control maintains peace in a house where not all love each other.
Also make sure their are no underlying health issues with the one being attacked. I’d suggest a blood work up to make sure. Some dogs will attack “weakness” when they know another dog is beginning to ail. And finally find a pro to assist you. Check the trainers list here and see if there is someone you can work with.
good luck,
Robin
We have a two year old 100 lb Swiss Mt. Dog She has Become very aggressive while on a leash walking her. She’ had over a year of training and did great even on a leash , but changes immediately when we walk her, which I can no longer do she’s so strong. We are interested in an e-trainer. We’re great at following directions Do you think your cd is enough? Exactly what e-trainer should we buy?Many,many thanks Maureen
We live in Bellingham wa
Hi Maureen,
I certainly think it is ideal to work with a professional who is highly experienced with e-collar training. That helps provide confidence, but I understand there are many locations that simply don’t have someone nearby…which is why I created the dvds. I don’t believe you can do any harm in starting with the dvds and trying it yourself. Follow the instructions and do the conditioning work without a lot of distraction around, then begin to expose to more distraction as both you and your dog get the hang of it. If you run into problems you can always give me a ring and we can do a phone consultation.
As far as what collar…I am a big fan of Dogtra e-collars. I believe they offer a great deal of versatility because of the rheostat system of stimulation. Take a look at the SureStim H Plus and the 1900 NCP. Both are very quality collars with the basic features you will need. You will just have to compare the various add features (one is expandable if you ever want to add a second dog to the system, etc) and see which fits your needs better.
Ihave a 5 yrs old black lab,very smart,little nervous,stubborn and very protective .Nobody can come in the house unless they know the dog.Iwill put him in the kennel and after a while if people are ok for him to come out ounce he has smell them he is ok.My next question is when we go outside sometime he listened to me but often he will go to the neighbours even I try to stop him he goes,Ilive in the country.Will a e collar work?
Hi Fernande,
An e-collar is a tool. Just as is a leash, or treats, or various prong, slip and head collars…there is no magic about. Like all other tools it can be used to help train your dog. The key thing is you need to train your dog to listen to you with basic obedience commands. For instance you must train your dog to come to you when called. This means your dog must learn to do this even when he may not feel like it because their are distractions around.
If you are interested in learning to use the e-collar to train your lab I would suggest you find an experienced trainer to help you, or at minimum purchase my dvd’s to teach you the basic process. Additionally if you decide to purchase an e-collar purchase a quality product so you know that you will have a tool that has versatility and will be fair for your dog.
Robin: we are thinking of getting an e-collar for our 9 year old Boston Terrier, he has developed some major aggression issues over the past 6 years and some other behavioural issues- first, as we walk him, he will lunge and bark/scream at other dogs, I have tried to have him focus on me with treats, or make him sit as dogs past by, but nothing works. I should say he was attacked by a wolf a year or so ago which doesn’t help and seem to display these behaviours more when we got our pug 5 years ago. Secondly, he has now begun to eat feces of both his own and my pug when we let him outside, we do our best to pick it up every time they go but he just doesn’t listen. We hired someone privately to work with him but it was a day session and it did nothing. We are at our wits end and wondering if a e-collar or the one that sprays citronella would be beneficial…we have a child on the way (our first) and so this all has me a little anxious. We live in Northern Ontario and there are really no good trainers here to help us. We have him doing sit/ stay commands and he will do them, but that is it. Please help and offer some advice if possible.
Hi Christina,
An e-collar will probably help you regain some control, but after 6 years of “practicing” this aggressive behavior, there is much work to do and you really need to work with someone experienced. In addition to some obedience work, you likely need an overhaul on leadership issues in the house. Have you down loaded the free tips pdf from this site? If not, click on the link on the home page and fill out the info to receive it. Those are some starting protocols to consider. Additionally the new behavior of poo eating suggests there may be some underlying health issues? I would see about a physical and perhaps a blood profile to see if anything has changed recently. In the meantime I will try to see if I can locate a trainer there. I know there are some in Ontario but not sure of location. You may have to do some travel to find decent advice, but with a baby on the way I think it is important you prioritize it.
we got a pure bred border collie puppy at 9 weeks and he has been fear aggressive towards dogs and strangers since we got him. We are working on socialization, desensitizing him, and conditioning him to associate strangers = treats but with limited success. He has been doing wonderful with obedience training and is only reactive 50% near people and dogs but 100% reactive if a stranger tries to reach for him or a dog gets in his face. We tried hiring a behaviorist but she did not seem to know how to handle a fear aggressive puppy. We want to start training with an e collar to improve obedience to use as a tool of distraction when he gets reactive but would still love for him to tolerate attention from people at some point in the future (he is very affectionate with our family.) We are in Raleigh, NC area if you have any trainers with strong experience if fear aggressive dogs, especially puppies or any other things to try.
E-collar training would probably help you have better control. Hopefully through that you could also have more success desensitizing etc. Have you seen this video? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gl-6T1fk3Os&list=UULFJfSltiXVfv3hHbbDHpww&index=23
I would also consider this may be a genetic issue since it has been present since such a young age. Plus it may be valuable to try and chiropractic adjustment. Sometime there can be underlying pain issue we are not aware of. It is not impossible for misalignment problems to be present from birth.
I’ll see if I can track down someone in your area.
Hi Lynne,
Here you go:
Elaine Pendall, Carolina Dog Training LLC
Raleigh, NC
http://www.CarolinaDogTraining.com
919-349-0000
I always find it amazing that people will blame inanimate objects for their choice on how to use said object. I don’t blame the car for breaking down if I never maintain it. The concept of using a remote collar is no different from using a physical leash. Both have to be taught and misuse by either can cause problems. You can use tiny little nudges to direct a dog just like a leash. If you take the time to teach rather than just expect a dog to “know” something, you will have the dog you want rather than being upset that the dog “just doesn’t get it”. If he doesn’t “get it” then re-examine your teaching methods.
Hi I have a 2 year old English Bull Terrier with no health problems, obsessive behaviors or aggression toward people or other dogs(with dogs on leash only). I work in a doggy daycare that excepts slot of what we call daycare rejects. Other dogs that have failed to play nice at other daycare or get discriminated against for breed etc. I have also of experience with aggressive, dominant an unique dogs and I love them all! My boy Max has been through obedience an is very well trained except when off leash! I can no longer bring him to the dog park or my daycare because he will be playing with a dog and all of a sudden vicious growl and attack them. It very frustrating because I can not figure out his trigger. It’s always dogs about his size or larger( I have toy poodle an Chihuahua at him he is fine with) but it’s also always out of nowhere. Some times it when he’s under dog, other times he’s on top, it’s even happens when he was just standing there alone he targeted a dog grabbed them and didn’t let go. I’d like an e collar but how do I train a dog who has no trigger for his aggression? I know dogs that hate one breed, some do no like puppys under 1 year, some can’t put another dog on their back or vice versa, and aim dogs get tired easily an can only do 20 min play sessions. My dog is none of these things is it just his breed? Any help is greatly appreciated!
Hi Kristina,
These case are challenging. I’m not sure what to tell you but there certainly are dogs that just aren’t suited to dog park environments. They can go 0-60 in the blink of an eye and that makes it hard to see any triggers. It might be breed, it might be underlying pain or physical issues also. I’m a big advocate of thyroid testing and working with a vet chiropractor who could spot potential body issues. Beyond that the best I can tell you is to only allow socialization with dogs you know and that he gets along with. As for an e-collar the only advantage it could give you a very solid recall that would allow you to interrupt and call him back prior to a fight. It isn’t going to be of much value once dogs are fully involved in a fight.
robin
Thanks for the response, Robin. I agree, no one should have to put up with it. Not only is it no good for her, it gets my blood pressure up and is my main stressor.
Unfortunately I currently work and live in a remote indigenous community where mistreating dogs is a way of life. The kids get their kicks out of stirring her up, plus stirring me up is an added bonus. Parents and authorities are of no assistance whatsoever, and some parents actively encourage their kids. Indeed, I’ve had trouble with adults doing the same thing, even when I’m sitting out in the yard. Even when Boo is not reacting to passersby, kids and adults stop and bark at her to wind her up. My requests to stop upsetting the dog are usually met with racial abuse.
Needless to say, I’m planning to leave the place as soon as I can get work elsewhere, but the issue with kids is a worry – I don’t want her to be a bad citizen, and I don’t want to lose her or have anyone else hurt. Hopefully I will be able to find a good trainer to help desensitise her.
As you suggested, keeping her inside is probably the best option, although I’ve been reluctant previously due to her puppy energy/chewing and the very small quarters I have (essentially a bedsit), and as she’s inside at night I wanted her to have plenty of outside time during the day. However, it obviously the lesser of two evils.
Thank you for taking the time to answer me.
Best wishes.
TD, find a way to increase her energy expenditure before you leave for the day. That can be through physical exercise, but also through mental exercise. You can teach her tricks, play games or use any of a number of “food puzzles”. Lately I’ve been using this to feed my most active dog each morning. It takes her about 20 minutes to eat and that takes energy to think through it. Then I would leave her inside (crate if possible) with a great chew toy. You can rotate toys each day (hiding the other ones) so she is more intrigued by “something new” or consider a raw bone (femur or knee) from the butcher to keep her occupied. Some boredom is better than what is happening outside.
Happy Holidays,
robin
Hi,
I have a spayed female 18 month old bull mastiff x ridgeback x pit who is very sweet natured. She has always been a bit of a sensitive soul though, and is usually quite timid. I call her the comfort zone dog – she takes a long time to get used to new things, and doesn’t like being outside her comfort zone. I also sometimes call her the paranoia puppy – if something new is in her environment (eg. a mat hanging on a chair) she is very wary and growls and avoids it until I convince her it’s not a threat. I’ve known her since she was born, and she has always been this way, and has never been mistreated.
She is not generally an agressive dog apart from when other dogs try to get her food. However that issue is manageable.
My real problem is that where I currently live the kids have taken to constantly teasing her through the fence, throwing rocks, using slingshots, climbing on the fence and so on. This has resulted in her becoming extremely sensitised to kids, and now even the sound of kids’ voices sets her off, and now she rushes the fence in a frenzy even when she is not being teased.
She is only agressive when there is a fence. If I’m walking her and we encounter kids, she immediately tries to run and/or hide.
Unfortunately I have no back yard where I can keep away from the street – the only fenced area is at the front. When I am home she is free to come inside, which helps.
I am of course extremely concerned that she may actually one day attack a kid, particularly as they have been known to climb into the yard and corner her under the building. Unfortunately parental supervision and/or action is not forthcoming. I have raised and screened my fence, but this has simply made the kids more confident in teasing her and exacerbates the situation.
She is generally very obedient and easy to train, but this issue with kids is a struggle, partly because I can’t confine her during work hours, and I need her to ignore the stimulus even when I’m not there. We’re currently not at my usual residence (staying with family on holidays), and even the sound of non-teasing next door kids playing in their backyard is setting her off. I try to distract her and then give her plenty of praise when she doesn’t react, but unfortunately I can’t always head off the start of it.
I’m at wits end – at the least I need the kids next door to be able to play in the yard without upsetting her. I would love any advice you can offer. Thanks.
Hello,
This is a difficult situation and unfortunately I can not give you magic advise that will solve it, but here are some thoughts.
1. Work with a trainer to re-establish a trusting relationship between her and kids. We want her to associate being around children with pleasant things.
2. You will have to find a way that she can be safe and not subject to harassment when you are not home. Is there a reason she can not be in the house when you are working?
3. Consider contacting the parents of the offending children or contact the proper authorities. The situation as it is..is setting you/her up for a potential big problem down the road. No one, human or canine should be expected to tolerate prolonged taunting and teasing. It needs to stop and she needs an escape option to get herself out of the situation.
Good luck,
Robin
I have a female Sheltie that I got from a gal that recently divorced and is moving. She just turned 3. I had her spayed a week ago and she has seemed to finally start acting like she belongs with us; however, over the weekend, she started running out from no where and chased down my husband and bit the back of his leg. She also did the same thing when I had a male friend visiting. I thought it was just men, but then she chased after my grandaughter when she was following me through the kitchen. She barked and chased, but didn’t bite her. When she has run out to my husband, she doesn’t give any warning. We purchased a collar to try to stop this behavior. I have not started with it yet, but we can’t have this behavior. I asked the previous owner before I agreed to take her, if she ever showed any aggression towards children, and she told me no. She’s a very sweet little dog, but this is very disturbing. We need to stop this immediately. I intend to try the collar, as we used it on our other dog when we got him because we couldn’t get him to come to us. It worked great, but he was never aggressive. Now she doesn’t want to come to my husband at all, because she’s been in trouble all weekend. We put her in her kennel when she does this. Any help will be appreciated.
Hi Diane,
You need to get professional help with this dog. Please don’t just purchase or use a remote collar to Stop this behavior. There needs to be evaluation as to “why” it is occurring and that may include some underlying health issues…I would need much more information and to see the dog in person to have a good handle on what is happening. You can check our trainers referral listing to see if there is someone in your area or do some research to find someone in your area who has a good reputation for rehabilitation work with aggressive dogs.
good luck,
Robin